Pop Down: Grub Club, Waterloo Vaults

On a cool autumn evening we drive through London’s Lower Marsh to a mysterious venue. It was a surprise anniversary date and I had no idea where we might be going. I was somewhat sceptical as we make our way down a seedy graffiti covered tunnel but pleasantly surprised when we arrived at the notorious Waterloo Vaults.

This is the setting for this evening’s Pop Down, Grub Club event, a not-so-secret group of dining experiences run at niche venues around the city. Tonight’s event is run by Cuisson London and features a Scandinavian influenced menu comprised of four delicious courses.

The atmosphere is friendly and tables are shared with other diners. Food is prepped right in front of you and guests are invited to partake in the process by adding garnishes or sauce.

The first course is incredible, cabbage served in a way I’ve never imagined, quartered and crispy. This humble vegetable is magnificent alone cooked in this way, but made extraordinary by a garnish of chorizo, red pepper and hazelnuts.

Next up is a truly Scandinavian fish, Mackerel, served with lovage, cucumber and daikon.

But it’s the main course that provides the theatre of the evening. Brisket and vegetables served with “teapots” of a gravy broth which makes the beef deliciously moist.

When it comes to dessert we stand divided. As a lover of sickly sweet flavours and chocolate I find the dessert too savoury. Coconut, pumpkin, walnuts and lavender, while delicious simply, aren’t pleasing my sweet tooth. My partner however adores these subtle flavours and we both agree the dish is creative.

The whole evening is completed with a series of fabulous cocktails in the downstairs bar. We leave firm fans of the supper club concept, swearing to partake in more cosy culinary adventures.

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